Italy’s Secret Countryside

Arrive in Rome and proceed directly to Ostia Antica, the port of ancient Rome, located just five miles from Leonardo da Vinci Airport. Take an easy-going guided walk through the beautiful archaeological park—a wonderful introduction to ancient Roman urban design and civilization. Continue south to the pristine Pontine Coast in the southern part of the Lazio region and check in to sea-facing rooms at our lovely hotel. Enjoy a welcome reception and dinner overlooking the Mediterranean this evening.

This morning, venture into the hills of Latina Province to learn about olive oil production from a local family that has produced this “liquid gold” for decades. Enjoy an olive oil tasting, then sit down for a casual picnic lunch (weather permitting). In the afternoon, explore the unique seaside archaeological park at Sperlonga, including the former villa of Emperor Tiberius. Dinner this evening is on our own.

Journey to the fairytale Garden of Ninfa this morning. Located in the Pontine Marshes, among the low hills of the fragrant Mediterranean countryside, the romantic garden of this private estate, with its medieval ruins, pools, fountains and precious botanical varieties is opened for us exclusively. Back along the coast, enjoy a private lunch in the fine dining restaurant of an up-and-coming chef in cheerful Terracina. Then, climb the city’s ancient acropolis for a guided tour of Terracina’s impressive Temple of Jupiter Anxur dating from the 2nd century BCE. Return to Gaeta and enjoy a light dinner together this evening.

Drive to the Campania region to explore the Royal Palace of Caserta, one of Southern Italy’s greatest heritage sites. Inspired by the Palace of Versailles, this 18th-century Baroque complex was the main residence of the Kings of Naples and is the largest former royal residence in the world. In nearby Capodrise, a retired architect opens his colorful home to us. Tour this historic 18th-century residence, originally built by Domenico Mondo, a painter who worked on frescoes in the Royal Palace of Caserta, then enjoy drinks in its jungle-like courtyard and join our host for a home-cooked meal. Afterwards, we return to Gaeta for an evening at leisure.

Drive through the countryside to the low hills just outside Tivoli to discover the massive private villa and majestic administrative city built by the cosmopolitan Emperor Hadrian in the 2nd century. After a lunch of regional specialties, enter the town of Tivoli itself for a visit to the incomparable Villa d’Este, a masterpiece of Italian Renaissance architecture and garden design. Continue to the rocky Monte Argentario peninsula in the southernmost province of Tuscany. Check in to our hotel, set within gentle pine trees atop a promontory overlooking the Tyrrhenian Sea and enjoy dinner together.

Take a break from touring this morning to relax in our peaceful surroundings. Drive down into Porto Ercole, an upscale harbor town and resort, for lunch at a waterfront restaurant followed by a leisurely afternoon cruise around the dramatic coastline of the Argentenario peninsula aboard a privately chartered yacht. Dinner this evening is at leisure.

Take a deep dive into Etruscan civilization at the nearby former Etruscan capital of Tarquinia. Visit a huge necropolis, including several dramatic tombs and tour the town’s excellent Etruscan Museum, filled with items excavated in the area. Continue to the cute hill town of Capalbio, a favorite summer retreat for wealthy Romans. In the afternoon, leave antiquity behind with a visit to the Giardino dei Tarocchi (Tarot Card Garden), a whimsical contemporary sculpture installation by artist Nikki de Saint-Phalle. Return to Monte Argentenario and enjoy dinner at our hotel this evening.

Head inland into the rustic Maremma countryside, arguably the wildest corner of Tuscany. Visit the pretty but isolated hill village of Pitigliano which, for centuries, was home to a flourishing Jewish population. Nicknamed “Little Jerusalem,” one can still see the town’s 16th century synagogue, kosher wine cellar, and oven used to bake Passover matzah. Proceed to nearby Saturnia, an electric blue natural spring pool. After lunch at a country restaurant, continue through southern Tuscany to Fonteverde, originally built by the Medici family to take advantage of the area’s much-prized mineral springs. Check in to our resort and enjoy dinner at its fine dining restaurant.

This morning, one of Italy’s most in-demand leather artisans opens his workshop for us, providing the opportunity to learn his unique story and admire his creations. Stop at a rustic agroturismo (farmstay), whose owner happens to be an excellent chef, where we are hosted for a delightful lunch overlooking the countryside. This afternoon, head to the small Umbrian hill town of Orvieto, which sits dramatically stop near-vertical cliffs and defensive walls, to visit its famous Duomo. After returning to Fonteverde, walk together to the village of San Casciano dei Baghi for dinner in a casual restaurant.

Drive through the iconic cypress-studded heart of the Tuscan countryside to the tiny town of Pienza. Take a guided tour led by an expert local author, stopping to see Pienza’s main piazza, duomo, and the pope’s beautiful hanging garden. Down a dusty road in the bare hills outside Pienza is the magnificent home of our author/guide, who, along with her family, hosts us for a home-cooked lunch inside their residence with panoramic views over the Val d’Orcia. Tonight, enjoy an evening at leisure.

Our final full day is dedicated to enjoying the amazing spa facilities at historic Fonteverde. A spa treatment or massage is included for everyone, plus there are many different pools and baths to enjoy, as well as beautiful walks to take in the surrounding countryside. Toast the culmination of our secret Italian adventure at a lavish farewell dinner this evening.

Transfer to the airport in Rome early this morning for flights home.