Uzbekistan and the Caucasus

Arrive in the early morning hours, just after midnight, and transfer to our hotel. After some rest and breakfast, set out on a city tour to see Independence Square and the Courage Monument, dedicated to the survivors of the major earthquake that devastated the city in 1966. In Old Tashkent, we stroll through a labyrinth of 19th-century, mud-walled houses to Khast Imam Square, home to some of Tashkent’s oldest monuments. Next, stop in the Moyie Mubarek Library Museum, which houses rare books from the 14th to 17th centuries. Gather this evening for a welcome reception and dinner.

Begin the day with a ride on the Tashkent Metro, the first in Central Asia. Adorned with granite and marble, chandeliers and mosaics, the stations on Tashkent’s three lines are meant to be “art galleries for the people” and each has a different theme. At the State Museum of Applied Arts, housed in a mansion built in 1898, take in the exhibits of ceramics, jewelry, rugs, musical instruments, and Uzbek-embroidered wall coverings called suzanis. Next, wander the Chorsu Bazaar with a local chef before heading to the art studio of a sixth-generation Uzbek ceramicist whose family has been making pottery since the 1790s.

This morning, transfer to the train station for our journey to Bukhara. A storied city of mosques and madrasahs, Bukhara has Central Asia’s only intact, still-inhabited historic core. Begin our tour at the Poi Kalyan complex that contains the Kalyan Mosque, Kalyan Minaret, and the Mir-i-Arab Madrasah, a working Islamic school from the time it was built in the 16th century to its closure in 1920. Head to the covered bazaar to wander among deep stacks of vivid handwoven carpets, felt hats, exotic jewelry and gorgeous embroidered suzani. Next, visit Bukhara's Jewish Quarter where we meet with a local rabbi. End the day with a meal of Uzbek plov at a charming, family-operated establishment, and learn firsthand how this dish is made.

This morning, tour the Ark Citadel, the original fortress of Bukhara dating back more than 2,000 years, with a local archaeologist. Stop at Samani Mausoleum, the 10th-century resting place of Ismael Samani, founder of the Persian Samanid Dynasty. Then, meet with a carpet weaving master at his workshop in a repurposed madrasah. We enjoy a concert of traditional shashmaqom folk music tonight before dining on a meal of Uzbek favorites at a local restaurant.

After breakfast, check out of the hotel and venture to the summer palace of the last Emir of Bukhara, where wild peacocks and peahens still stroll through the park-like setting. Stop at the mausoleum of Bahauddin Naqshband, a 14th century Sufi mystic, before heading to the train station for our journey to the desert city of Samarkand and the midpoint of the Silk Road. Dinner tonight is at leisure.

Begin today in Registan Square, flanked on three sides by ornate madrasahs. Stop in the studio of Babur, a professional musician who meets with us and demonstrates traditional Uzbek instruments. After lunch, see the massive Bibi-Khanym Mosque, built by Timur, the Turkic conqueror also known as Tamerlane, and dedicated to the memory of his favorite wife. Across the street, browse the rows of produce, nuts, and spices at the Siab Bazaar. Continue to Shah-i-Zinde, a stunning avenue of beautifully tiled mausoleums, and the Ulug Bek Observatory, built by Timur’s grandson, a remarkable astronomer-king. Later, enjoy the splendor and solitude of 15th-century Gur-Emir Mausoleum, after regular opening hours have ended and this iconic monument is closed to the public.

After breakfast, venture outside the city to a workshop where handcrafted paper is made according to traditions handed down from the 8th century, when papermaking began in Samarkand. Stop in the Kuzmunchoq Kindergarten to meet with the teachers and enjoy a short concert prepared by the students. After lunch, visit the workshop of a master block printer, once a dying art in Uzbekistan but now experiencing an energetic revival by a new generation. Next, we experience a demonstration of traditional Uzbek bread making. Take the early evening train back to Tashkent.

Spend the morning at leisure before heading to the airport for our flight to Baku, Azerbaijan. Upon arrival enjoy dinner at a restaurant featuring authentic Azeri dishes and mugham music, a fusion of Persian and Turkic traditions.

Today, take in the contrast of old and new, first exploring Baku’s Old City, or Icheri Sheher, with its winding streets and alleyways that are encircled by the old city walls and medieval gates. See the Shirvanshah Palace Complex and tour the interior of the Heydar Aliyev Cultural Center, the swooping architectural work that has become a landmark of modern Baku. Later, sample Caspian caviar and sip local Azerbaijani sparkling wine at the Villa Petrolea, built in 1884 by siblings Robert and Ludvig Nobel, founders of the Branobel oil company.

After breakfast, transfer to the airport for our flight to Tbilisi. Upon arrival, set out on a walking tour of the red-roofed Old Town, taking in the 4th-century Narikala Fortress; Mother Georgia, a soaring 20m-tall aluminum monument on Sololaki Hill; Metekhi, a Georgian Orthodox Christian church; the Anchiskhati Basilica, Tbilisi’s oldest church; and Sioni Cathedral with its impressive stonework. Next, stop in a local bakery to learn how traditional Georgian bread is made and visit the workshop and educational center of jewelry designer Nino Mamulashvili. We also browse the clothing, textiles, ceramics, jewelry, and artwork on display at Gallery 27, where we meet with the owner and hear about her work with local artists.

Expore Tbilisi's prized museums. First stop is the Georgian National Museum and its Soviet Occupation Hall, commemorating the Georgians who were killed or deported during the Soviet years of 1921 to 1991, followed by a visit to the National Art Gallery. Later this afternoon, head to the Lado Gudiashvili Museum for a reception and a short talk with the curator about Gudiashvili’s life and art.

Travel to nearby Mtskheta, the former Georgian capital, stopping along the way at the Jvari Monastery, situated on a hill overlooking the confluence of the Kura and Aragvi Rivers. In Mtskheta, visit Svetitskhoveli Cathedral, the most important church in Georgian Christianity. Back in Tbilisi this evening, enjoy a traditional feast of Georgian specialties accompanied by a choral performance showcasing polyphonic vocal music that has been passed down by ear since the 5th century BCE.

Following breakfast, depart Tbilisi and cross the border into Armenia. Drive across the rugged landscape, stopping at Haghbat Monastery. Founded in 976 CE, this fortified monastery served as a literary, artistic, and educational center as well as a monastic compound. Continue to Yerevan, arriving in time for dinner.

Founded under the name Erebuni in 786 BCE, Yerevan changed hands dozens of times during centuries of conflict between Arabs, Mongols, Turks, and Persians. See Republic Square, stroll along boutique-lined Northern Avenue, stand before Mother Armenia in Victory Park, and enjoy coffee or tea during a visit to an Armenian wind instrument studio. This afternoon, visit the Matenadaran, one of the world’s oldest book depositories, in existence since the 5th century. Gather this evening to toast our journey during a festive farewell dinner.

Transfer to the airport to catch early morning flights returning home.